There’s an area in the Greater Kruger that I keep coming back to. Sabi Sands Game Reserve is, for me, one of the most consistently excellent safari regions in Southern Africa. It’s essentially the more private, premium little sister to the Kruger Park, with unfenced borders that allow wildlife to move freely, and a reputation for big cat sightings that really delivers.
I’ve been visiting this region since I was a kid, and it still gets me every time.
This trip I split my time between two very different lodges: MalaMala Rattray’s Camp and Tengile River Lodge. Both in Sabi Sands, both excellent, but each with their own personality. Here’s how it went.
MalaMala Rattray's Camp
MalaMala has the largest private concession in Sabi Sands, with the Sand River running right through it from north to south. What that actually means in practice is more space, fewer vehicles, and some of the most productive game viewing you’ll find anywhere.
We stayed at Rattray’s Camp, which is MalaMala’s most premium and intimate lodge. Just eight rooms, all on the river, with a more traditional, colonial feel. If you’re a honeymooner or a couple who just wants quiet, this is your lodge.
I also popped into MalaMala’s Main Camp and Sable Camp while I was there. They share the same traversing area but have their own communal spaces and slightly different vibes. Sable is smaller and more adult-focused, a quieter atmosphere with a bit more intimacy. Main Camp is the one I’d point families and groups toward. More social, a bit more buzz. Honestly, all three are great, it just depends on what you’re after.
But let’s talk about the real reason people come to MalaMala: the game viewing.
We saw more leopards in a few days than I’ve seen on some week-long safaris. Relaxed, close, totally unbothered by the vehicle. And one evening we spent the better part of an hour with a pride of lions and six cubs who were in full chaos mode, darting around the vehicle like it was their personal playground.
Tengile River Lodge
And then there was Tengile.
I loved this place from the moment I walked in. It probably helped that we were greeted by a herd of elephants strolling along the river right in front of the lodge, as if they’d been briefed on our arrival time.
Tengile is located on the neighbouring concession to MalaMala, with no fences between them, so wildlife flows freely across both properties.
The lodge has a certain je ne sais quoi. Chic without trying too hard, contemporary but warm. The suites are so spacious they feel more like private villas.
What really stood out to me, though, was the team. The staff strike that perfect balance between polished and relaxed. They’re sharp and professional when the moment calls for it, but just as happy to crack jokes and tell bush stories around the fire. After years of working on the yachts, you develop a bit of a radar for service, and Tengile nailed it.
After evening game drives, we’d head to the bar for a quick drink before dinner. And not just any bar. The bartenders were making cocktails like we were at a top spot in London or Paris, smoke tricks and all. Not something you expect at a safari lodge, but that’s why I loved it.
The food matched up too. A new menu each day, with enough range that you could go all out or keep it light depending on how ambitious your afternoon game drive snacking had been.
One moment that stuck with me, I called down and asked for something slightly off-menu, and the response was “At Tengile, anything is possible.” It sounds simple, but it really captures their whole approach. Nothing feels like too much effort, just genuinely good hospitality in one of the most beautiful settings.
Final Thoughts
Sabi Sands remains one of my top recommendations for anyone considering a safari in South Africa, whether it’s your first time or your tenth. MalaMala is the gold standard for game viewing, and Tengile is one you’ll still be thinking about months later (as I will be!).
If a South African safari is something you’ve been thinking about, I’d love to help you plan it. Every lodge has its own character, and finding the right fit makes all the difference. Get in touch and let’s start building your itinerary.
